SAN RAFAEL REEF RAMBLE

DAVID HOLTEN MEMORIAL TRIBUTE

 

SAN RAFAEL SWELL, UTAH

 

Sunday, May 10 through Saturday, May 16, 2009

 

Contact: Leader, Robert L

Assistant, Steve P

 

Leader’s note: Dave Holten loved Utah’s slickrock and canyon country and in as much as one aspect of this particular trip is to share memories of our experiences with and pay tribute to him, it seems fitting to plagiarize a portion of the Overview of the last trip description of the San Rafael Swell that he wrote.

 

I am not so sure whether anyone who has wandered (the canyon country) and looked upon the wonders that nature has wrought - its gorges, its canyons, its mountains and its pained rocks, and upon its ancient stone cities, and the cliff dwellings of its canyons - is ever afterwards quite sane – Colonel Charles D. Poston, 1920

 

OVERVIEW

 

The San Rafael Swell … how shall we describe it?  Let’s just say it is a giant dome-shaped uplift of eons-old sedimentary rock - Coconino, Moenkopi, etc…even the geologic names sound exciting.  It really means rock walls without limit, in reds, tans, oranges…colors to make one blink.  And there are canyons, and cliff faces, and gorges, and hidden valleys peopled with silent, mysterious towers and pinnacles.  Sounds like a fantasy…but its not.  Rather, it’s a real place, all 1.8 million acres, 80 miles long, 40 miles wide – 5 wilderness study areas, three quarters of a million acres proposed for wilderness designation.  There are a few negatives – many old uranium mines from the boom of the 50s, a few cattle still grazing the canyon bottoms, some unregulated ORV intrusion, still not a bad place to disappear into for a week, which is exactly what we intend to do.

 

The uplift that formed the San Rafael Swell began 50 – 60 million years ago.  Erosion, volcanic activity and glaciation have removed and altered much of the interior.  The strata on the periphery of the anticline were tilted back forming the nearly vertical walls of the San Rafael Reef.  The Reef encircles the entire Swell but it is only above the surface on the eastern side where it forms a formidable boundary of Navajo, Kayenta, Wingate, and Moenkopi walls.  On this trip we will form an intimate association with the Reef by way of a three-day backpack and four day hikes over, under, around and through it.  Our wanderings here will involve an intimate relationship with one of the most rugged landscapes in the U.S.  Rewards will be many …possible thousand-year-old Barrier Canyon petroglyphs, Fremont People’s pictographs, following the footprints of moonshiners and horse thieves, challenging route findings in an area of few trails (mostly going from this pinnacle to that dome), plunge pools and the San Rafael River, shy and seldom seen arches, views with labels like wondrous or spectacular, etc.  Also, don’t forget wet feet, steep, rocky, brushy hillsides; water where we find it, occasional location confusion, and more.

 

This is an exploratory trip and is largely unscouted.  Hence, almost any kind of experience, adventure, or surprise (whatever you care to call it) might be possible.  Therefore, please show up in a relaxed and adaptable frame of mind.  And be sure to bring a large measure of patience and good humor along with your sense of adventure.  Not to worry though, the leaders will have the right guidebooks, GPS and maps required… it all should be a memorable time!  One further point – we will not do any walking in the dark. To insure this you will hear this phrase at least seven times – “UP AT 6 (AM), GONE BY 8 (AM)”.

 

May weather in the area should be optimum – comfortably cool to warm sunny days, cool star-filed nights. But since we don’t give guarantees, come prepared for the worst – with rain gear and shelter.  Also, there is little water in the area; water transport (and water treatment if any is found) is absolutely necessary.  Check below under Water, Weather, and Gear.

 

ITINERARY (our best guess and always subject to change)

 

PRE-SUNDAY, MAY 10: The official meeting time to begin this trip is on Sunday, May 10 at 8:30 AM, Utah time; (remember 8:30 AM Utah time is 7:30 AM California time). The meeting place is the San Rafael Campground.  Leaders will be camped there on Saturday night, May 9. Strongly recommend participants arrive at the campground by Saturday night.

SUNDAY, MAY 10 thru TUESDAY, MAY 12: After a short meeting on Sunday morning, we will depart the campground for our first trailhead 14 miles away (we will return by this same route Tuesday afternoon.) From the trailhead we will begin a three-day backpack by hiking about 3 miles around Mexican Bend north of Mexican Mountain to an abandoned airstrip.  There we will drop our packs, and day hike another 2 miles and 900 feet up the Horse Thief Trail to a saddle at the top of the San Rafael Reef.  Our rewards will be splendid views and perhaps a glimpse of Acer’s Arch.  On the way back we will pick up our packs, have an opportunity to top off with water from the San Rafael River (turbid and will need treating), then proceed north past Delicate Arch for a 2 – day loop trip up Spring and Nates Canyons with a possible sojourn into Sulphur Canyon.  The territory will be rugged and route finding may be difficult.  We may find water at the heads of the canyons but to play it safe count on carrying at least 2 + gallons with you.  At the end of this leg we will recover the vehicles and return the way we came past the campground back to I-70.  From there we will travel 18 miles east through the Reef to Ranch Exit 149 and proceed about 7 miles north and make a car camp.

 

WEDNESDAY, MAY 13:  We will begin the first of our four day hikes with an 8-mile loop up Grotto Canyon, through Horse Heaven returning by another canyon.  (Bring your own water on all of the day hikes).  This hike will begin rather plain and nondescript but change quickly as we enter one of the finest short canyons in the Northern Reef.  Be prepared for potholes, possible wading and steep slickrock scrambling.  If the Gods are smiling on us and we are REALLY lucky we just might find an old cabin on a knoll.  In our return canyon we will negotiate several obstacles, a huge pool at the base of a big drop and a half mile of tantalizing pools.  Once again, we will recover our vehicles and move to a new camp 15 miles to the south where we will stay for three nights.

 

THURSDAY, MAY 14:  A 7- mile dayhike through Little Spotted Wolf and Uneva Mine Canyons.  This hike will involve Class 3 scrambling and one long up hill section on our way to a 1000’ elevation gain.  Our rewards will be a superlative hike through the reef clearly showing the layers of sandstone that were thrust up to form the reef over 50 million years ago.  On our way we will try to sight the ruins of the Uneva Mine.

 

FRIDAY, MAY 15:  Uneva Mine and Three Finger Canyons.  More class 3 scrambling on a 6-mile dayhike and a 550’ elevation gain.  This hike is not exceptional for the terrain covered, but the perks along the way more than make up for this.  There are a set of moonshine tanks, an old miner’s encampment, a spectacular view slot, and several excellent panels of Fremont Culture petroglyphs.

 

SATURDAY, MAY 16:  On our final day we will drive to a trailhead and do an easy 5-mile scenic hike up Straight Wash and Eardley Canyon to the largest and finest perennial pool in the Swell.  We will be amazed by this pool, which is 25 yards in diameter and up to 6 feet deep.  This is one of the most popular short hikes in the Swell and it is a weekend; hence we may see others.  We will return to the vehicles for the end of the trip.

 

 

HOW TO GET THERE

From the Bay Area, go 250 miles east on Interstate 80, through Reno, to the East Fernly turnoff to U.S. 50 Alternate; in about 30 miles, in Fallon, pick up U.S. 50, go 340 miles on U.S. 50 across Nevada, to the Baker junction; go right on Nevada Hwy 478 & Utah Hwy 21 for 136 miles to Beaver. Go 20 miles north on Interstate 15 to the Interstate 70 junction; go east 114 miles on I-70 to Salina, Utah.  Now, go east on I-70 from Salina, about 75 miles, to Ranch Exit 131.  Exit the freeway here, to your right.  Quickly, come to an intersection; go left under the freeway, shortly to turn east, now to parallel I-70.  Soon the route will turn north into the open sweeping vistas of the Northern Swell.  Continue on this good dirt/gravel road for a total of 19 miles to the San Rafael Campground ($6.00 fee).  It will be on your right just before you cross the bridge over the San Rafael River.  Several side roads take off from your route; just stay on the obvious main road.  There are 12 sites with 2 vehicles and 10 people per site.  The campground has toilets.  There is open land with no facilities on the other side of the bridge from the campground.  Please show up at the meeting place with as full a gas tank as possible.  Fill up at Salina or from exit 131, continue another 30 miles east to Green River for gas.  Water, food and supplies are available in both towns.  The section of I-70 between Salina and Green River is the longest stretch of freeway in the U.S. with no services at all.  During our week outdoors, we will drive about 100 miles total.  Do leave yourself a fuel cushion, should our itinerary change.

 

WATER

 

There is no guaranteed reliable water source in the Swell.  During the week, we will not break out to civilization to replenish anything (emergencies the exception).  The San Rafael River will have water in it, but it could be very murky, requiring at least, filtering or purification.  Sediment might be another problem. Up canyon water sources should only require purification.  They are seasonal, however.  Regardless, considering the water unknowns present at this time, it would seem prudent for each participant to show up at trip start with at least 6 or 7 gallons in his or her possession.  Seems like a burden, but as remote as this area is, it might be worth it.

 

WEATHER

 

This trip is in a high desert environment of the Colorado Plateau; elevations will range from 4000 to 5300 feet.  Though the weather should be perfect (but maybe on the cool side) in May, you must be prepared for any extreme – cold, hot, or rainy.  Besides the normal short pants & tee shirt attire, please include warmer clothing, rain gear, & overnight shelter, as a tent or bivy bag.  Also, include sun protection, such as sunscreen, a hat, long pants, long sleeved shirt, & sunglasses.  Rain in the Swell means impassible roads, hence there’s always the chance of being stuck till “dry rot” occurs…so bring something to read!

 

GEAR

 

Each participant is responsible for providing his/her own camping and backpacking equipment, including water & food.  The entire week will be spent along or off remote dirt roads having absolutely no services available to the camper/hiker.  It is therefore mandatory that you bring sufficient food & supplies for the entire week’s trip.

-         Water: see above

-         Bring your own food & cooking gear.  Consider grouping up for meal planning, cooking equipment, stove sharing, etc.  Reference attached list of participants for contracts.  We will not build any fires.

-         Bring cold weather gear in case it storms.  Bring rain jacket, down jacket, tent, tarp, or bivy sack. For possible hot weather, & intense sunshine, bring long-sleeved shirt, long pants, sun hat, sunglasses & sunscreen.

-         Bring your own toilet paper & toilet trowel, plus a plastic bag to pack out your paper.  No burying of toilet paper in this area – it will last forever.

-         Whether you choose a quality pair of broken-in hiking boots or light weight running shoes that dry out quickly, your footwear must be comfortable and supportive.  At least one hike will involve wading.  Leader’s past experience strongly recommends that you keep your boots on, and just let them get wet.  If you have concerns regarding blisters, bring a “blister kit” – tape, mole foam, scissors, etc...

-         Also very highly recommended – a hiking stick for canyon walking, & hill climbing.  A single collapsible “LEKI” walking stick is perfect for this.

-         Don’t forget flashlight or headlamp, camera & lots of film and/or batteries, litter bag, compass & maps if you’re interested in knowing where we’re going or from whence we came, a water filter or Potable Aqua iodine tablets for water purification, insect repellent, (just hope that you are too early for Deer Flies), and a daypack.

-         Regardless of other equipment you bring, please consider a whistle (the most important item), matches, a small flashlight, compass, plus anything you feel might aid you in a “displaced solo” situation.

 

MEMBERSHIP, RELEASE, TRIP DONATION, AND CANCELATION

 

All participants in Desert Survivor trips must be a paid-up member and sign the standard release form, which should be on file prior to the trip.  A $20 trip donation will be requested at the trailhead.  If you have to drop out, please let the leader know as soon as possible, as there are a number of people on the waiting list for this trip.

 

MAPS AND REFERENCES

 

USGS 7 ½ degree maps for this trip are:

(No place has better map names than Utah…)

 

USGS 1:100 000 scale map for this area is:

 

USGS maps are available from:

http://store.usgs.gov/scripts/wgate/ZWW20/!?~language=en&~theme=GP&OSTORE=USGSGP&~OKCODE=START

 

An excellent map for this trip is the Trails Illustrated map from National Geographic, San Rafael Swell #712 http://shop.nationalgeographic.com/product/394/335/246.html

 

The following hiking guides cover the trip area:

 

 

FINALLY

This trip traverses some of Utah’s most remote backcountry.  About 100 miles of dirt road are involved. Some sections are a bit rough, though passable by 2 wheel drive vehicles.  PLEASE insure that your car is in good mechanical condition, with

1)      Good tires and a spare, all properly inflated,

2)      All tools necessary to change a tire.