*DESERT
SURVIVORS*
http://www.desert-survivors.org/
*WALKING
THE WATERPOCKET FOLD BACKPACK*
*CAPITOL
REEF NATIONAL PARK**, **UTAH***
Sunday,
May 4 through **Saturday, May 10, 2008***
Contact:
Leader, Robert L
Co-Leader,
Steve P
This
description was written by Steve P
OVERVIEW
How
does one write an “Overview” for anywhere in Southern Utah, and particularly
for Capitol Reef National Park? Let’s try this…”It is a sublime panorama. The
heart of the inner Plateau Country is spread out before us in a bird’s eye
view. It is a maze of cliffs and terraces, red and white domes, rock platforms
gashed with profound canyons, burning plains barren even of sage all glowing
with bright color and flooded with blazing sunlight. Everything visible tells
of ruin and decay. It is the extreme of desolation, the blanket solitude, a
superlative desert.” (Words of geologist Clarence Dutton in 1880). Now you know
where this trip is going more specifically, a seven day exploration of some
of the earth’s most colorful landforms, all located immediately west of and
along a 50 mile stretch of a remote Utah back country byway the
Notom-Bullfrog road. Traversing the east side of that area’s dominant rock
structure, the Waterpocket Fold, this dirt road will be our gateway to a wondrous
geological phenomenon. Stretching north and south, like the back of dragon,
this 100 mile-long warp in the earth’s crust will present to us an astonishing
array of west-tending gorges and canyons, cut into this 60 million year old
slickrock monocline. Our task will be to walk, climb and/or swim as many of
these sites as possible in the seven-day time window allotted. Such a problem!
Our game plan for this penetration of the remote “South District” of Capitol
Reef National Park is outlined in “ITINERARY”, below.
May
weather in the area should be optimum comfortably warm sunny days, cool
star-filled nights. But since we don’t give guarantees, come prepared for the
worst with rain gear and shelter. Also, there is little water in the area;
water transport (and water treatment if any is found) is absolutely necessary.
Check below under Water, Weather, and Gear.
This
time of the year is also quality outdoor time on the Colorado Plateau. Hence,
we might encounter other people so it may be unrealistic to expect total
solitude or isolation.
ITINERARY
(Our best guess and always subject to change)
*_SUNDAY,
MAY 4:_* We will meet at Capitol Reef National Park at *8:00am** sharp, *Utah
time; (remember, 8:00am Utah time is 7:00am California time). The meeting place
is the “Doc Inglesby Picnic Grove”, which is located about 8/10ths of a mile
south of the Visitors Center, on the road to the Fruita Campground. Turn into
the 2^nd parking lot on the left side of the road. After a short introductory
meeting, we will then drive 37 miles (graded dirt) to the trailhead and lunch,
then a 5-mile afternoon backpack to a one-night camp in Upper Muley Twist
canyon.
*_MONDAY,
MAY 5:_* After breaking camp and securing our gear, we’ll do an 8-mile loop
hike up onto and along the Waterpocket Fold, via the “Rim Route”. Here to
actually thread our way along the very crest of the Fold. Along the route, we
will pass through the colorful geology of the Jurassic and Triassic periods. We
will recover our gear and by mid-afternoon return to the trailhead, to drive
about 6 miles down to “The Post”, and the night’s camp.
*_TUESDAY,
MAY 6:_* Early move-out, to position vehicles for an overnight backpack down
Lower Muley Twist Canyon. Half of the vehicles will remain at The Post. We’ll
descend into the canyon from the Burr Trail Road, then 8-10 miles down-canyon
backpack to a camp among the slickrock benches and alcoves of the lower canyon.
*_WEDNESDAY,
MAY 7:_* Continue down Lower Muley Twist to depart via Halls Creek Valley,
return to exit trailhead (The Post Corral), and spotted vehicles. Recover Burr
Trail vehicles, camp second night at The Post.
*_THURSDAY,
MAY 8:_* Break camp and early move-out…some 20 miles south to Halls Creek
Overlook. From here, we’ll start a 3-day backpack into Halls Creek Narrows;
about 8 miles down to the “Grand Gulch of Halls Creek”, to the start of the
narrows, here to establish a two-night camp. Our sought-after campsite is a
beautiful alcove used several years ago…hope we can find it.
*_FRIDAY,
MAY 9:_* The ultimate fun day a day hike/wade/flounder/swim through the
ethereal beauty of the narrows about 3 miles of slot canyon nirvana; listen
to G.K. Gilbert, a geologist, in 1876 “The traveler who follows down the
Waterpocket Canyon (Grand Gulch of Halls Creek) now comes to a place where the
creek turns from the open canyon of shale and enters a dark cleft in the
sandstone. He can follow the course of the water and will be repaid for the
wetting of his feet by the strange beauty of the defile. For nearly three miles
he will thread his way through a gorge walled in by the smooth, curved faces of
the massive sandstone, and so narrow and devious that it is gloomy for lack of
sunlight; and then he will emerge once more into the open canyon.” We will do a
cross-country return over Halls Creek Divide to our alcove camp.
*_SATURDAY,
MAY 10:_* Retrace the 8-mile backpack route back up the Grand Gulch to the
Halls Creek Overlook, return to vehicles mid-afternoon…end of trip.
*_END
OF TRIP NOTE:_* Though the trip is over, you are still a ways from
civilization, (shower, motel, restaurant food, etc.). To the north, it’s 47
miles back up the Notom road to pavement, then 20 more miles to Torrey. (For a
unique meal with a distinctive southwestern flair, the leader suggests that you
consider the “Café Diablo” restaurant at the western edge of Torrey.)
*_QUE
SERA SERA NOTE:_* Please come to this gathering with a spirit of cooperation,
patience, and adaptability. Also, and most important…your sense of humor! One
more thing, and this is strictly voluntary, suggest we have a couple of pot
luck suppers on the car camping nights of our adventure, where we just spread
that meal’s food on a tarp and everyone digs in. One way to do this is, for two
of your suppers, just double the quantities at the time you put them together
at home before the trip. That way, we will be sure that there will be enough
food to go around. We can also do this for the beverage, (or cocktail). On
Monday night’s camp at The Post, the co-leader plans to grill fresh chicken on
a gas-fired barbeque. It is a great way to find out how bad everybody else’s
food is compared to your own. Also, storytellers and storytelling is
encouraged…the more outrageous, the better.
HOW
TO GET THERE
From
the Bay Area, go 250 miles east on Interstate 80, through Reno. Approaching
Fernley, look for the U.S. 50 Alternate turnoff. In about 30 miles, in Fallon,
pick up U.S. 50 east toward Austin, Eureka and Ely. Go on U.S. 50 across
Nevada, and into Utah. 436 miles from Fallon, intersect I-15 near Holden, Utah.
Go 9 miles north on I-15 to the U.S. 50 turn-off (at Scipio). Now, continue on
U.S. 50 36 miles (through Salina) to exit 54 on I-70. Go west on I-70 about 8
miles to exit 48. Take Utah Hwy 24 south here, for 72 miles through Torrey,
finally to Fruita and Capitol Reef National Park. Follow signs to Visitors
Center. Fruita Campground below the Visitors Center is often full. There are
three private campgrounds in the Torrey area (the small town just west of the
National Park). There are motels in Delta, Salina, Torrey, etc. A very nice
Forest Service Campground called Maple Grove (signed), is located 6 miles west
of Hwy 50 between Scipio and Salina…a good overnight stop on this route.
PLEASE
SHOW UP AT THE MEETING PLACE WITH A _FULL TANK OF GAS._
WATER
There
is no reliable water source anywhere along the Notom Road. Hence, you must
carry all of the week’s supply of water in your vehicle with you, beginning
from the start of the trip. 7 gallons per person should be the absolute minimum
10 gallons per person would be a better quantity. Further, you should have
the capability to carry in your backpack, a minimum of two gallons of water,
for each of the planned backpack trips. We might find potable water in the
Halls Creek Narrows but to cover all bets, please travel with the 7 to 10
gallons recommended. Iodine tablets or a water filter will be necessary to
treat any water we may find. Water fill-up can be done at the Park’s Visitor
Center.
WEATHER
This
trip is in a high desert environment of the Colorado Plateau; elevations will
range from 3000 to 6000 feet. Though the weather should be ideal in early May,
you must be prepared for any extreme cold, hot or rainy. (A few years ago,
after a week of pleasant hiking while keeping an eye on the changing weather,
the leader and a friend were camped at the Cedar Mesa Campground off the Notom
Road. While we were asleep, rain began during the evening unknowingly changing
to snow during the night necessitating a frantic, white knuckled, slippery
25-mile escape drive the next morning on a rolling, curving, snow-slick mud
road.) Besides the normal short pants & tee-shirt attire, please include
warmer clothing, rain gear, & overnight shelter, as a tent or bivy bag.
Also, include sun protection as needed, such as sunscreen, a hat, long pants,
long sleeved shirt, and sunglasses.
GEAR
Each
participant is responsible for providing his/her own camping and backpacking
equipment, including food and water. When planning your needs for this trip, remember,
it’s in three parts two overnight backpacks and one two night backpack trip.
The entire week will be spent along or off the Notom Road a very remote dirt
road having absolutely no services available to the camper/hiker for its entire
66-mile length. It is therefore mandatory that you bring sufficient food and
supplies for the entire week’s trip.
* Bring at least 7 gallons of water per
person in the car when
departing the meeting place at Capitol
Reef. 10 gallons per person
is recommended. You must be able to carry
at least 2 gallons of
this water in your backpack through the
trip.
* Bring your own food and cooking gear.
Consider grouping up for
meal planning, cooking equipment, stove
sharing, etc. Reference
attached list of participants for
contacts. We will not build any
fires.
* Our day hike through the Hall’s Creek
Narrows will be a unique
experience. In some areas that are more
open we may be hiking on
gravel banks alongside the creek. In other
spots, depending on
water levels and conditions, we may be
wading short stretches that
are ankle-deep or finding ourselves in
chest-deep water with sheer
rock walls on both sides. Please bring
appropriate attire along
with a cheery mind set! Slot canyons!!
* Bring cold weather gear in case it
storms. Bring rain jacket,
down, Polargard or fleece jacket, tent,
tarp, or bivy sack. For
possible hot weather, and sunshine, bring
long-sleeved shirt, long
pants, sun hat, sunglasses, &
sunscreen.
* Bring your own toilet paper& toilet
trowel, plus a plastic bag to
pack out your paper or matches to burn it
in situ. No burying of
toilet paper in this area it will last
forever.
* A quality pair of broken-in hiking boots
is an absolute necessity.
If you have concerns regarding blisters,
bring a “blister kit”
tape, molefoam, scissors, etc.
* Don’t forget flashlight or headlamp,
camera with lots of film
and/or batteries and enough memory card
space, litter bag,
compass, maps and GPS if you’re
interested in knowing where we’re
going or from whence we came, a water
filter or iodine tablets for
water purification, insect repellant
(just hope that we are too
early for the deer flies), and a daypack.
* Regardless of other equipment you bring,
please consider a whistle
(the most important item), matches, a
small flashlight, compass,
plus anything else you feel might aid you
in a “displaced solo”
situation.
MEMBERSHIP,
RELEASE, TRIP DONATION, ENTRANCE FEE, AND CANCELLATION
All
participants in Desert Survivor trips must 1) be a paid-up member, and 2) sign
the standard release form, which should be on file prior to the trip. A $10
trip donation will be requested at the trailhead. If you have to drop out,
please let the leader know as soon as possible, as there are a number of people
on the waiting list for this trip.
MAPS
AND REFERENCES
USGS
maps (7 ½ degree) for this trip are:
* *Bitter Creek Divide*
* *Deer Point*
* *Stevens** **Canyon** North*
* *The Post*
* *Wagon Box **Mesa***
1:100
000 scale maps for this area are:
* *Escalante*
* *Hite Crossing*
USGS
maps are available from:
http://store.usgs.gov/scripts/wgate/ZWW20/!?~language=en&~theme=GP&OSTORE=USGSGP&~OKCODE=START
Other
useful maps are the *Hiking Map & Guide, **Capitol** **Reef** **National
Park*, Earthwalk Press http://www.globecorner.com/t/t22/11393.php
Trails
Illustrated maps from National Geographic, *Glen Canyon NRA/Capitol Reef NP*
http://shop.nationalgeographic.com/product/394/335/246.htm
The
following hiking guides cover the trip area:
* *Hiking the Southwest’s Canyon Country*,
Sandra Hinchman
* *Utah’s National Parks,* Ron Adkison,
Wilderness Press, 1200 5^th
Street, Berkeley, CA 94710
* *Canyon Hiking Guide to the Colorado
Plateau, *Michael Kelsey
FINALLY
This
trip traverses some of Utah’s most remote backcountry, both by auto and on
foot. About 130 miles of dirt road are involved. Some sections are fairly
rough, though passable by 2-wheel drive vehicles. PLEASE insure that your car
is in good condition, with good tires and a spare, all properly inflated and
all tools necessary to change a tire.
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