Hardscrabble Backpack in the Inyo Mountains (M/S)

Inyo Mountains Wilderness Area
April 14 -17, 2006 (Fri - Mon)

Leader: Craig D for Desert-Survivors.org



The Desert Survivors organization was born in the Inyo Mountains in 1980. A group of students at UCLA first explored trails here and then were joined with others in a loosely organized group sometimes called "Friends of the Inyos." These mountains are crossed and re-crossed by old trails used by miners between 1890 and perhaps 1930. The original group and others later have located and followed many of these trails. Along the way one encounters mine shafts, mill sites, cabins, springs, and sometimes elaborate rock work on portions of the trails. When you look at the old mining equipment (stamp mills, boilers, and tramways) it is almost impossible to imagine how men were able to get all this into the mountains where no roads existed. The life that miners led in these mountains must have been one of hard, hard work with few diversions and few rewards. It is humbling to look at places where they lived.

The Inyos are also extra-ordinarily beautiful in a harsh, rugged way. Ridges are high with long views east over the Saline Valley. Canyon bottoms are thick with brush. The springs and streams are chocked with alders, willows, and worst of all wild rose. Between the canyons and the ridges are steep rocky sides. The trails can be followed only with some difficulty. In places the walking is simply difficult, but more often the trail simply vanishes and some searching is needed to pick up the trace again to continue. This trip will be an adventure.



THE HIKE -
Our hike will begin in the Saline Valley. If we are fortunate we can drive an approach road to something known as the "Snowflake Talc Mine." If we are not so fortunate and the road is impassable we will need to walk an extra mile and a half.

The first day will ascend 4000 or 5000 feet to a ridge that looks back over the Saline Valley. We then descend about 1500 feet to what is known as the Beveridge Mill Site. We will camp here where water is available. Depending upon the energy of individuals or the group there is a brushy walk up this canyon (perhaps a mile and a half up and then again back) to on old and somewhat disreputable cabin. This walk might also be taken early on the second morning.

At the end of the second day we will arrive at what is known as the Beveridge Cabin, rather high on a ridge with wonderful views across the canyon and out over the Saline Valley. This cabin was stabilized by the original Survivors, and it is still minimally maintained by volunteers.

The third day will explore the Keynot mine about a mile to the north and will then follow a rather more respectable trail out along a ridge and somewhat downward.

The last day is a long descent. Depending upon the condition of the roads we may or may not be able to use a short car shuttle to save some walking at the lower elevation of the Saline Valley.

If some wish to longer, the hot springs in Saline Valley are a 30 minute drive from our trailhead and are a destination for a somewhat odd collection of desert rats, hippies, and even snowbirds.



HOW TO GET THERE -
We will meet at 8:00 AM in the Saline Valley itself at the junction where a small dirt road leaves the main north/south Saline Valley road and leads northeast to the hot springs. See map of meeting place and trailheads

Driving northward through the valley this junction is a mile or two beyond the salt lake bed, and it is (or at least was) marked with some sort of white boulders on the east side of the road. Persons familiar with the Saline Valley will recognize this description and will find the junction without difficulty. For the rest of us I will make the following proposal. On Thursday evening I will arrive at the Olancha Ranch House Restaurant (described in the previous letter) at 5:30 PM for dinner. Join me there for dinner, and at 6:30 PM we will caravan into the Saline Valley. This should allow us to reach the newly announced meeting place by 9:00 PM and we will simply camp there. The road is graded gravel but a car with reasonable ground clearance is needed. 2WD is sufficient. You will need to bring water for this camp and for the hike of the next day as there is none available.

With this early start we should be able to reach the Beveridge mill site our first night, but it is a serious challenge - nearly 5000 feet of elevation gain followed by 1000 feet of descent. On the chance that problems arise, plan to carry at least one gallon of water on the first day - two liters for the hike and an extra two liters on the chance that we do not reach our destination and are obliged to bivouac in a dry camp along the way.

A minor consideration that occurs to me regarding this first camp is mosquitoes. Several years ago I encountered quite a swarm of these little devils at the Beveridge mill site. While I am relatively immune to their attacks, it would be wise if we all were prepared with bug dope and perhaps a head net. These cost very little and weigh nothing.



WATER -
If we are fortunate our only dry camp will be on the third night. This means that we must have the capacity to carry water for two days and the intervening night - perhaps 6 or 7 liters. There will certainly be water available on our first night. Our second night will be spent at or near the Beveridge Cabin. If we are fortunate there will be water in a well about 30 minutes distant. It is also likely that there will be snow patches nearby. I recommend bringing a stove and sufficient fuel that you can melt snow for water. If we are not fortunate, then a descent (and return) of about 1500 feet will be needed to reach a reliable spring.



GEAR -
At our higher elevations in April it may be rather cool at night, perhaps as low as 35-40 Fahrenheit. It can also be very warm at the lower elevations in the day. Rain is quite unlikely. Mosquito are possible. With this as background the customary desert camping equipment would be needed: sleeping bag, ground cloth, good boots, a change of socks, long pants, HAT, SUNBLOCK, SUNGLASSES, food, and stove as appropriate for the cooking arrangements that you make. Personal items may include camera, toilet articles, reading/writing material, and your own first aid for foot problems, sunburn, headache, and minor cuts. As with all Desert Survivor trips you are responsible for you own food and preparation gear. Ask others before we leave and we can share stoves if necessary. When we begin on Friday morning we can decide whether to bring tents or shelter and how we might want to share these.



DIFFICULTY -
The total distance may be as little as 15 - 16 miles, but do not let this mislead you. The first day will be perhaps 4 miles on a rough, rough trail with an elevation gain of nearly 5000 feet. In places the trail might be called "class 3" climbing. The last day will require a descent of 4 or 5 thousand feet, on a somewhat better trail this time, depending upon where we decide to camp the night before. All this is hard on knees, ankles, and sometimes dispositions. The second and third days will be somewhat easier, but always the trails are sketchy and steep. The trip should probably be called strenuous.



MAPS -
In a stunning departure from tradition our entire trip can be covered in only TWO 7.5 minute USGS topo maps: New York Butte, Calif and Craig Canyon, Calif. In fact, the second of these (Craig Canyon) is only needed for a very short distance on the first and last days. Finally any California state highway map is likely to be useful in reaching our meeting point. I will, indeed, have all the maps, and so participants need only bring maps for their own interest.



PARTICIPATION -
This trip is limited to members of Desert Survivors. It is necessary to have signed the standard release form before going. There is a suggested (voluntary) $10 donation, which will be collected at the first meeting on Friday morning.

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